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Normandy (11th April to 17th April)

By Nick Hodge | February 28, 2004

Wednesday, 14th April, 2004

Long day started with a mad dash to Bayeux to see the nearly 1000 year old Bayeux Tapestry. This is a 70 metre long piece of linen detailing the story of William the Conqueror and the battle of Hastings in 1066AD. Made in the years following, each frieze (story-picture) tells a part of the story of Anglo-Saxon King Harold and his breaking of a vow to William to hand over the kingship of England to the Norman after the death of Edward the Confessor. The Tapestry is a sight to behold: an important part of history.

To simplify it down to modern day terms, the Tapestry is like a cartoon that was originally destined for the Bayeux Cathedral.

We drove along the A13 returning the car to Paris. Did we say that driving and navigating in Paris is like a very large provicial French city? That is, its very very difficult. After almost being involved in a 20-tonne truck vs. Fiat 500 (you can guess who won) and probably charged for speeding, we return the car and find we have less than 5 hours in Paris. Therefore, the only famous part of Paris we see this trip is a glimpse of the Eiffel Tower in the distance. Oh, well. Note to self(selves). Don't hire cars in Paris.

Ultimately, we've made the correct decision to see a piece of history that is 1000 years old vs. something a mere 120 years old.

Thankfully, Gard Paris Bercy has a great waiting area for people staying in sleepers on the Paris-Venice train. Also great security. Paris transport police (gendarmarie) are checking the Gard, and the trains in the yard close to our waiting area.

It's a shame to leave France. We've really enjoyed the Normandy experience, and certainly my opinion of the French and their language has been positively effected.

Board at 7.30pm, depart Gard at 9.30pm. I have a two-berth sleeper cabin to myself and attempt to sleep. Evidently we pass through Switzerland on the trip south. Asleep in France, nudged awake every stop and rise in Italy.

Tuesday, 13th April, 2004

According to our French waitress at an Italian restaurant last night, I pronounce French with a German accent. Ouch! If you don't speak French, you can get away with things. However, when life gets more complicated: like your Opel is falling apart, you need a native tongue to assist.

At least my driving (on the left hand side) on French roads is better than my language!

"Normal", and I challenge someone to define normal, families would have their holidays on or near a beach. The Hodge's are no different, however the beaches we are visiting are major battlefield sights in Spring. We are not going for the sun and surf, but the history of these beaches.

Today we start in Ranville, just to the east of Pegasus Bridge. This was the eastern-most flank of the British sector on D-Day, and a set of two key bridges that the Allies wanted to keep open for advances into France. This particular battle in the D-Day mosaic was popularised by a book by Stephen Ambrose, Pegasus Bridge. Again, the strength of on-the-ground leadership shows through here. Two large tour buses of English tourists are here at the same time. Attempting to shop in the famous Cafe Gondree makes one think that the English are invading again, or have forgotten that this is now French soil.

Off to a second layer of the Atlantic wall defenses codenamed Hillman: here Liam and Avril crawl around/in the remaining German bunker system. The field of fire and view is interesting, and once you stand in these places you get an idea of how these defenses were planned and used.

Through Sword Beach (now Ouistreham) to Lion-sur-Mer to see one of Hobart's Funnies (special version of a Churchill Tank) and on to the middle of the Canadian sector (Juno Beach).

After passing through the Gold sector, we arrive at Arromanches. Here there is an impressive sight of the remaining "Mulberry harbour" (named Port Churchill) where the Allies created a harbour to permit logistical resupply of the Battle of Normandy. 20+ of these Mulberries are still in the harbour, but are slowly disintergrating. An impressive sight.

Drop in to the Musée Débarquement for a quick look. Probably yhe most well kept museum in the region. Although we can but wonder why there are military weapons from neutral countries on display.

Liam has his photo taken with more Sherman tanks. There are more Sherman tanks per square Km than anywhere on earth here.

We arrive at another bunker at Longues-sur-Mer: here the Kriegsmarine created batteries taken out quite surgically by the Navy (including the HMS Belfast). The original large calibre ex-Navy guns still sit in their bunker systems: evidently, the farmer paid scrap merchants money to leave them in place. Behind, a temporary airfield was setup.

Our final stop series focuses on Omaha Beach: the scene of the worst of the fighting and the most tenuous hold on the peninsula. It was where the first waves of the American troops (1st Division and 29th Division) were cut down by strong defense. Having now been in many of the beaches, and comparing Utah to Omaha, it is easy to see why so many (>3000) became casualties. A sobering place.

Our time with Geert, and in the D-Day part of Normandy is at a sad end. We can only strongly recommend Battlebus from Bayeux as Guides, and specifically Geert as a guide. If you can stretch to a personal guided tour we also suggest this as a good strategy.

Monday, 12th April, 2004

Hello from Basse Normandie, or Lower Normandy. We are off in the Opel (German) hire car to Bayeux to collect our personal tour guide for the next two days, Geert. After a quick piece of luck/good navigation we find him in Place du Quebec in Bayeux, just around the corner from the famous nearly 1000 year old Bayeux Tapestry.

Geert, is an expert in the area and on the "D-Day" and "Battle of Normandy" -- and this is the reason we are at the beaches. Not for Beach weather, as although its fine and sunny -- the temperature is about 12degC today. Perfect Battlefield tour weather.

This area has a rich history, most recently (ie: last 1300 years) of Norman occupation. The Normans (or Norse-men) were "vikings" from northern Europe who invaded and essentially took over this central part of France. In 1066 they invaded the island next door (England) and took over. William the Conqueror build his castle next door to where we are staying in Caen. More on this later.

In more recent times, that is 60 years ago, over a million men from England and the US liberated Normandy on the 6th of June 1944 to free the French from their German invaders. Even today, the French celebrate (revere might be a better word) this time -- and tourism related to this part of their history is a significant industry. In June 2004, Geert informs us this part of France will be full of veterans, world leaders (12 expected) and tourists.

Battlebus, the operation Geert works for, is offering a service to veterans as a "taxi service" rather than tour operator, during probably the last major memorial to this significant time in world history.

Our first official port of call is Saint Mere-Eglise (accents left off on purpose!). Here, the 82nd Airborne division were tasked with securing bridgeheads and taking over the communications hub for the Cherbourg peninsula. Its difficult to retell the stories we heard today. What is very confronting is hearing how men fought, died, won, lost and acted in a fashion that is difficult to fathom in these modern times.

This is the point to talk about the central theme of this tour: correcting a perception of history given to us by movies such as "Saving Private Ryan" and "The Longest Day" and the mini-series "Band of Brothers". Its no so much that these movies are incorrect, more that dramatic license has been taken by scriptwriters to make stories come alive in a filmic sense. The reality is easier to understand when you walk the ground.

After a short visit to the museum, which attempts to tell a story, we are off to places closer to the coast. On the way to Utah Beach, we call into a small monument at Beuzeville au Plain (Normandy is full of these monuments) to the crew and passengers of a C-47 transport plane that crashed about 1 mile out of town. This C-47 carried the HQ of Easy Company of the 506th PIR, 101st Airborne. If you have seen "Band of Brothers", you might recall this as the central Company as depicted.

At Exit-2 of Utah Beach there is a museum and the Roosevelt Cafe. As we are being privately guided, we get to see more than normal visitors. Again, history comes alive. It is named Roosevelt as Teddy Roosevelt's son was the General who very ably led at this sector. In the distance, you can see Point-du-Hoc.

On the way to Point-du-Hoc, Geerts takes us on a detour to a special farm, Brecourt Manor. This is a working farm; there are cows in the fields and horses in the stables. It smells of diesel, grease, horse dung and cow manure. Just to the right of the manor house there is a field that is shown in "Band of Brothers" (Day of Days episode): this is the story of how Capt. Winters led a very succesfully attack on a battery of four 105mm guns aimed at Utah Beach. Again, visiting the area makes it quite clear why the battery was here, and brings to life the small battle in a day of battles. In one of the corrections, Geert explains why the guns were not 88mm as talked about in the miniseries, but rather larger calibre. This part of today is what I have found the most valuable.

What is very interesting about this particular stop is that it is not signposted. There is no "tourist shop" to trap people. There is no memorial or monument. Taking the personal guided tour with Geert has bought us closer to the heroism of the day. Its also interesting that Spielberg and Hanks have visited the manor to get a first hand understanding of this particular piece of history.

On through Ste Marie-du-Mont, to "Dead Man's Corner" on the road to Carentan. Eating a quick lunch at this crossroads undervalues the history, and the fact that a soldier died in his Stuart tank attacking this corner. When you sit and take it all in, seeing the ground you feel the history.

History is everywhere. Manor houses, high walls and buildings date from 700 or 800 years ago. These older pieces of Normandy history pass us by as we travel through thin laneways and high Bocage (hedgerows). The hedges are made of vines imported by the Normans as a replacement to fences. There are many, many small fields interspersed with these single-car sunken laneways. This geography is explained to you in books, but until you are in it -- its difficult to feel out what these soldiers had to deal with. Also, after being "on the ground", you can feel the tenous grip the Allies had on "Fortress Europe" within that first day.

Other pieces of history pass us by: Fontenbleau is near here, where Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton were married the second time. Isigny-sur-Mer is the home of the ancestors of Walt Disney (Disney comes from d'Isigny or from Isigny: where a famous Norman family who invaded England came from) . Also the field where the French got rid of the English from their soil in the 16th Century. All within minutes drive from each other.

We visit Point-du-Hoc, a point at the top of a 150 foot cliff-face that has a field of fire that covers the water directly infront of both Utah and Omaha beaches. Here, the Germans had emplacements and guns that were overrun during D-Day by a regiment of Rangers. Out of 220 men, only 90 left. Walking around the still-cratered ground where 600 tonnes of explosive were used, and seeing bunkers (reinforced cement 4-6 feet wide) untouched (but pock-marked with 20mm rounds etc) or completely blown to pieces the size of cars (in the case of the ammunition dump) -- its a small piece of land held for nearly two days from 1000 Germans. The "Longest Day" did not do justice to the strategic importance of this piece of land. Simple conglomerate rock (clay, very unstable) that has a clear view for miles around.

On our way to the famous US Military Cemetery in Colleville-sur-Mer, we call into a small village cemetery in St. Laurent. Here there are three graves of Commandos who lost their life here in September 1942. Each has a story. All were young.

In contrast, the US cemetery, as displayed at the beginning/end of "Saving Private Ryan" is overwhelming. 9487 graves (including 4 women) to US soldiers, sailors and airmen (with a wall over over 1000 missing to the rear) all in rows is a sight to behold.

For the first time today, I refrained from taking many photos. The only photo I took does not show the name of the soldier, nor shows a full gravestone. This place is special. Its not a tourist attraction. It is extremely difficult to explain the sight of 9000 gravestones perfectly aligned. Each person has a story, and did not return to the US.

I was unaware that the Cemetery was on one of the exits from Omaha beach. There are many pieces of symbolism here.

My overall impressions from today are varied. Firstly, the local French feeling of "liberation" by the Allies is a deeply held belief. This "liberation" has expressed itself as respect, and certainly not exploitation. The areas are closer than I expected, and the physical damage whilst visible in some areas: life has gone on for the locals.

Normandy is the land where the decendents of the Normans liberated their historically-removed cousins.

Sunday, 11th April, 2004

Up early to catch the Eurostar through the Eurotunnel to spend Euros in mainland Europe. Taxi ride to Waterloo station, where quite ironically French immigration officials stamp us into France. Even though we are in Waterloo station, London. Strange.

Due to depart at 8.01am, we leave 4 minutes late. Forgiven, considering we are three in a cabin with six other people; in a cabin that can hold around 50 -- so its virtually sit anywhere. Breakfast is served with real cutlery. Friendly staff serve the best transport food I have eaten in a while. Historically I have been anti-train travel. This European train travel appeals to me.

We're through Brixton and into the fields of England. We quickly run out of England, we are are into the Channel Tunnel (called Eurotunnel) for 20 minutes. Then we are really in France. It seems that the speed limit for trains in France is higher than England. We are doing at least another 40km/hr in France.

Outside the window, you can see many graveyards and gravestones of allied soldiers. We're right in the midst of WW1 battlefields. Visiting here will wait for another day.

Gard Nord (North Terminal), rental car and experience the pleasure of driving through Paris, around the Periphique (Ring Road) via the A13 to Caen. (I cannot translate how to pronounce this!)

Avril goes wild (puts the foot down) once we find that the good-weather speed limit on the A13 is 130km/hr. Considering we paid 11.50 euro for the pleasure of driving on this highway, we get as much value as possible. There were 4 peages (French for Tollgates) along the 230kms from Paris to Caen.

Hotel, bed and ready for a new day in Normandie.

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Topics: mungenet |

4 Responses to “Normandy (11th April to 17th April)”

  1. Mick Liubinskas Says:
    October 26th, 2008 at 8:27 pm

    Great post Nick. I've always wanted to go and after watching Band of Brothers again I really should.

    As you said, I'm sure the reality was different and being there must change how you understand it.

  2. Nick Hodge Says:
    October 28th, 2008 at 12:50 pm

    Mick-- can highly recommend going. Get on a tour, and absorb it all. Nick

  3. dave Says:
    November 15th, 2008 at 10:47 am

    Just a quick correction...BoB does have the correct 105mm designation of the guns, as you'll note Winters informs at the start of his debrief.

    It was common for G.I.'s to refer to any gun and incoming shell as an "88"...

    I found your observations very interesting to read, thank you for posting them.

  4. Nick Hodge Says:
    November 15th, 2008 at 12:16 pm

    Dave-- thanks, the 105 vs 88mm have been oft discussed --Nick

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